THE BALTIC ODYSSEY

by Pavel Buyko (RA3AUM), RRC#333

Also: photos

It has started long before the moment, when we embarked the yacht and headed to the Westest Russian islands of the Finnish Gulf. On the conference of “Russian Robinson” club in Voronezh, Mike, RL3AA, having learnt from Nick, UA3DX, that we were at IOTA test on Kotlin Island, suggested that we should make him a company in an expedition to the “new” islands for Russian Robinson Award of the Baltic Sea. The first meeting of all the members of the team, namely Mike, RL3AA, Leo, RN3AZ, Nick, UA3DX, I, RA3AUM and Alexey, the captain of yacht “Almaz” (“Diamond”) took place on a nice winter day of the February 23. On that day the rout was worked out, the dates were fixed and the number of equipment, necessary for two working places, was agreed on. After that there were several more meetings, agreeing on the list of the participants, cutting down the list, enlarging the list and sometimes the full list destruction. Leo and I went to a well known for island hunters club station RK3DZJ for pre-setting of antennae and for borrowing some things. Mike, RW3FS and Igor, RU3DDX helped us there a lot. But, as usual, two or three days were scarce and the week before the expedition had been spent in terrific rhythm. Again, something was being bought, something was being checked, something was being fixed and something was being borrowed. At last, on Thursday, July 17 on a small bus, full of equipment, foodstuff and our belongings, Leo, RN3AZ and I, under the guidance of former pilot Victor Pronin now a driver, headed for St. Petersburg.

At the guest quay we found effortlessly “our” yacht with the name “Almaz” on the board. With a bit of inconsideration (it was 6.30 a.m.) we woke up the crew and started embarking. The number of things dumped at the quay put captain Alexey into gloom. We also doubted that such a heap of equipment, pipes and other things could be put to the yacht. But the main (and the only) mechanician Sergey placed everything in the depth of it. Antennae and masts were safely attached on the yacht bow and the petrol containers – in an inflatable boat, which was supposed to be dragged on a tow. A short way to Kronshtadt, where Mike, RL3AA and Nick, UA3DX joined us, going through customs – and we were leaving. Farewell kisses of those who were seeing us off, girls’ tears, a poster with the motto: “With the shield or on the shield”, the Baltic fleet orchestra were playing “The Slav’s farewell”… Well, ok there was nothing of the kind, but it would be great if it were like that! We left and no one even waved a hand.

Meanwhile Mike, RL3AA, got busy with the installation of the equipment to work from the yacht. Antenna ATAS-100 was attached to the board of the yacht and transceiver FT-897 was empowered from onboard network of the yacht. I was pointed a “Pioneer” without any vote. It was probably written on my face that I wanted to become the one. I pretended, that I could if it were necessary, but I had no desire. In fact, I was dying of desire to work on air and tell everyone, that we were on our way and little time was left to wait. Actually I hoped that our work from new RRA islands had been waited for. The first two-three calls of the loudest radio stations did not give any results. Then answered, gave 59. Next – 59+ and in this manner escalating till 59+20!

Gradually, the life on the yacht became better: someone was working on air, someone was sleeping, someone was sun bathing. The rolling was felt, but the circumstances were not seen. I, personally, was very scared of the consequences and bought a pack of “kinedryl” (special pills preventing rolling). The experienced people advised. I read the instructions, it seemed as though everything coincided: it prevented from car, plane and ship sickness. But there were the side effects, which almost made me sick: itching and rash, eyesight disorder and mood breaking down, pain in stomach etc. But the same experienced people calmed me down saying “Don’t worry! Everything will be OK!” As it was prescribed, Nick, Leo and I took pills an hour before leaving. Mike refused to take pills, probably, he was an old salt and was not afraid of rolling. At first I tried to listen to the reactions of my organism. I peered to the horizon trying to find out “eyesight disorder”, I inspected my hands, hoping to see any rash, but my organism refused to signal that something was wrong. Neither mood was breaking down. They really did not cheat us, we felt no discomfort. But the most interesting thing was that we didn’t take pills any more and no one felt sick, except Leo once, but once is not considered.

Next morning we met Bolshoy Tyuters (Big Tyuters) island on the horizon, a favorable wind, which let to go under a sail and sleeping like a log Leo, RN3AZ. It turned out that he decided to yacht and stood before a steering wheel till 3 a.m. Plus a sleepless night to St. Petersburg, so the organism yielded and Leo slept 14 hours non-stop. Someone, I didn’t remember who, even asked if he was alive at all?

According to the information we had, Bolshoy Tyuters Island was mined during the WWII (World War the second) and only now miners from MES (Ministry of Extreme Situations) started to work there. We were going near by. A big army tent was seen on the shore, where the miners seemed to settle. Probably we had to ask them if we could stay on the island. But it would be several days after. Our first goal was easily seen on the horizon: these were Virginy (Virgins) islands. It appeared, that islands with such a name were not only in the Caribbean Sea. The Virginy consisted of two islands: the Severnyj (Northern) Virgin and the Yuzhnyj (Southern) Virgin. The Southern one was larger, about 300 meters long. The scarce vegetation was represented by four-five bushes of dog rose and juniper. Thin grass was hardly seen under the stones.

On the highest point of the island, which was four meters above sea level, was some small pyramid of stones. There were large boulders picturesquely scattered around the island, trapping any vessel, going near by. We already started to plan where better install antennae and tents. We envied captain Alexey’s calmness with which he went across the island. With his remark “Maybe the Northern one is better?” he sown doubts in our minds. After a short counsel, we decided to land on the Northern Virgin. It was smaller, but there was four time more vegetation, some shed was seen and a luminous sign on which a wire antenna could be attached. The luminous sign, as Alexey explained to me, differed from a lighthouse because it was a temporary building, whereas a lighthouse – permanent and constant. I didn’t know how temporary the Northern Virgins luminous sign was, but everything had been done there strongly and safely and seemed to stay there for good.

We chose the place for landing. On an inflatable boat type “Zodiac” an engine was attached. Alexey chose me as an accompany. We left the yacht and Mike, RL3AA shouted: “Pavel, you will be the first HAM, who stepped on this island shore!” Wow, I never thought about it! But, it’s damned pleasure! We were reaching the shore carefully, but the screw touched the bottom slightly. As we discharged the petrol containers, it was hard to row, and Alexey, all dressed, jumped into the water and dragged the boat to the shore. On the closer look a sand beach turned out to be a beach of stones from “two fists” size till the size of a small melon. I took off my trainers and jumped into the water too. All the stones turned out to be covered with seaweed and thus slippery. Despite everything I put on my trainers back and helped Alexey to drag the boat to the shore. A short investigation revealed that the island consisted of the same stones, logs and other rubbish. We went back and told the others what we had seen there. Leo hardly reacted on our story, he appeared to be seasick a bit and we decided to take him on the shore. We gave him antennae and a tent for shack, which he should install till we finished the landing. He did it to his best and after landing the only thing, which was left for us, was to install antennae to the masts. It caused some unforeseen difficulties. We had to look for a place for pegs and ropes. The stones were not on the surface, but on a meter in depth as well. To set the first level of ropes took us more than an hour! While we were busy with the antennae, Mike, RL3AA set a sleeping tent. In general there was nothing particular about it, short of that it had been the first time, when he saw such a tent and set it for the first time as well.

At 4 a.m. we were through at last. UA3DX and RL3AA couldn’t resist their weariness and went to bed. Nevertheless, Leo and I decided to start both working places. One place was equipped with transceiver FT-897, amplifier IC-PW-1 and antenna TH3mk4. The second place was equipped with FT-890, TL-992 and a vertical antenna StepplR. Two generators HONDA EU20i were the source of power supply. The first place started to work without any problem but the light was winking a lot. Having got ensured that everything worked fine, we tried to start the second place. After the first pressing on the foot switch the amplifier TL-992 started to wink with all his lamps and produce some sounds showing that something was wrong inside. Leo, with decisiveness of a surgeon, who knew the reason for illness, rushed to the amplifier with a screwdriver and a clipper, instead of a scalpel.

After 30 minutes having amputated an exploded anode condenser, he declared a sudden death of the patient. We sang a doleful prayer. It was worth mentioning that we survived stoically such a terrible loss. All in all we could do with only one amplifier. The died was put back into the box and we started to work on air from the Virginy islands on classification RR-01-22 of the “Russian Robinson” award. We were met by a significant pile up. Sometimes we had to work according to numbers. Many people asked about our further plans, it meant that we were long waited for on air. It inspired sort of optimism. The day passed in working on air and walking along the island. All the participants held about 3 thousand QSO’s from that island.

The next in our plan was the Malyj (Small) Tyuters Island. It was seen on the horizon with the naked eye and having gathered all the things and having said farewell to the Northern Virgin Island, our captain headed the yacht to the next island. Approximately after 3 hours we came so close that we could choose a place for anchor parking. Behind a small cape with a funny name “Dangerous” we found a vessel. On a closer look the vessel turned out to be thrown on the shore. Judging by the rust, it was thrown out long ago. Its name was “Voskhod” (“Rising”). We decided to land there. The bottom was the same slippery as on the Virgins. On the shore, there was a stripe of stones, then there was sand and after it quite a nice meadow was seen. We decided to set our positions right there. Several goes and all the equipment were on the shore. We were acting by a checked up scheme: the first go – petrol containers, then Leo, RN3AZ with antennae and tents and at the end – all the rest. That time we were lucky to manage everything faster. Everybody knew what to start with. However, there were problems with pegs for ropes again. They entered the sand easily like into butter, but exited with the same easiness. We reinforced them with great boulder and by the tradition we finished to install the antennae by 4 a.m.

In the morning the main work on air started. The propagation were good, but to the Europe mostly. By the midday the yacht went to the cape Kolgomplya (about 50 km to the south-east), where the captain meant to meet his friends and join us. By the evening the new members of our team were reaching the shore with a wavering Black Jack and Labrador Macho by name on the board. I called them “members of the team”, because we got an incredible support from Valery and Victor either in cooking dinner or in installing the antennae. The next morning turned out to be hot, but cloudy. The propagation on 20 was super: all the three Americas North, Central and South went through wonderfully!

Somewhere on the Southwest thunders were heard and a stripe of dark clouds were seen! We should say that we were incredibly lucky with the weather. During all the days of our expedition the air temperature was 25-28 Celsius above zero, the water – 23-24! While the cloud was pondering if it should turn to us, we were pondering about the same. Was it passing by or not? About 3 o’clock the cloud made up its mind and turned to us. An hour before it Valery, Victor and Alexey went to the other side of the island to establish fishnets to treat us with “ukha” (fish soup), before that we were not lucky with fish. Seeing that the cloud’s intentions were quite understandable, we thought that we should cover the generators with something. There was nothing at hand, so Nick, UA3DX and I were sent to the yacht to fetch some cover. The engine of the boat started neither from the first time nor from the second. We had to row. The cloud, seeing something suspicious in our activities, was about to burst with rain. When it was 100 meters left till the yacht, it decided that the visual threats were not enough and it was high time to start to act. A sharp blow of wind from the cloud turned our boat almost 180 degree. With lateral eyesight we noticed that the yacht had bowed 45 degrees and wasn’t going to rise back again. Having got that Sergey, who stayed on the yacht, could hardly be of any help to us, we started to row to the shore. It was 500 meters to the coastline and between the shore and us there was “Voskhod”. At first we were forced right into it, where its boarders were cut. The perspective was far from a pleasure. But right at that moment the wind enhanced and we were forced into the open sea. We were frightened outright and started to row madly. Nick was silent, as for me, well, I would hardly be able to pronounce such words again even if very much asked. If we were at the rowing competitions, we could outdo any champion!

After 10 minutes of a mad rowing which seemed to us lasted no less than an hour, at last we reached the shore about 600 meters far from the place of our start. Slippery stones, which meant to break our legs were not noticed at all. Having dragged the boat as far as possible to the shore and having tied it to a big stone just in case, we ran to our position. Having climbed a small hill on our road, we saw a picture, which could cause a heart attack. Antenna TH3mk4 lay on the ground like a crashed plane. The elements were curved down. The mast was broken on the first sight. Vertical was not seen at all and the heap of some cloth was all what was left from the tent. The tend, meant for shack, turned to be something hard to understand, out of the cover RL3AA and RN3AZ looked trying to hold what was left from it. Naturally, while rowing we didn’t pay attention to what was going on the shore. That is why I would describe the impressions of those who were right there. At first they worriedly watched our exercises and bet if we would turn back or row till the shore. Seeing that the cloud was not going to play jokes, they started to put all the equipment with a sprinter’s speed into the waterproof trunks. Mike, RL3AA bought them especially for this expedition, the fact, which neither he nor us felt sorry for.

Meanwhile, the wind was getting stronger and looking out of the tent they lost not only us out of sight but all the antennae either. Getting out they tried to hold the tent. Why outside? Probably they didn’t realize what they were doing. The sight of the fallen antenna could put anybody out. After some time, pulling ourselves up under the rain, they got inside trying to hold it there, thinking what had happened to us: either got sank, or were taken to the sea or got to the shore. And there we were! After 15 minutes everything was over. Only small waves and thrown out seaweeds reminded of a hurricane.

On the first sight the loss was significant: on antenna TH3mk4 at the place of attachment to the boom, the director and reflector were bent, vertical fell into the water and before reinstall it, we had to dry it, all the tubes of a shack tent were bent as well.

Everything was recovered in 24 hours. The tents were set again, but this time pegs and ropes were safer. All the bent parts of antenna TH3mk4 were cut. As all the elements had some spare parts, they were enough to compensate the cut length of the element. The mast turned out to be whole, except for two elements, which were disconnected between each other. Before installing the antenna, two deepening in the ground were made each a meter into depth. Spare tubes from the masts were put there and covered with stones. Now we were ready for any hurricane! Though all the circumstances were liquidated, it changed our plans. We were really tired and all the members of the crew didn’t want or simply couldn’t go anywhere. I was also tired, but the perspective to explore a new island gave some strength, but the thought of charge and discharge made me shudder. Mike, RL3AA said aloud what everybody was thinking of: we would be working in IOTA contest from here, and to Bolshoy (Big) Tyuters we would send RA3AUM, i.e. me. I was told to take one of the generators, a vertical and FT-897. But that would be tomorrow, and that evening we put on the luminous sign three elements of Yagi StepplR directed to the West.

Next day I packed all the necessary equipment and in the midday we left for the Bolshoy Tyuters. Our trip was longer than I supposed it to be. Alexey wanted to save the petrol and most of the way we went under a sail. Only by 5 p.m. we threw an anchor in a small bay. Alexey and Valery (he and Viktor also decided to go to the island) went to hold talks with the military men, located on the island. We observed a bit agitation in the field glass after the guys’ landing. The talks lasted about an hour. At last after checking the documents and my license for work on air from the island, we were given a positive answer. I asked permission to work from the shore very close to the water, where I could place the radials of the antenna. I organized the working place as soon as I could, remembering that my work was waited by many island hunters not only in Russia and abroad, but by my friends on the Malyj Tyuters. I used the trunk as a table, where I placed a transceiver and antenna power control, and the smaller trunk was used as a chair. It was not comfortable, but quite passable. The generator started at once. I turned on the transceiver...

On 20 the noise is S9 exactly! The same phenomenon was on the previous islands. We found out that the handicap was from the generator, it happened periodically, but most of the time it didn’t present. I tried to take the generator as far as I could jumping above the stones hidden in the high grass. Grounding was of no use. The time was running! The noise was only on 20 meters and I tried to give CQ on 17 and 15 meters. But these bands were almost empty and nobody answered. The 20 meters were full of different stations, which passed louder or on the S9 level. Again my CQ didn’t bring any results. And at that moment I heard Leo, RN3AZ, he was calling for someone. I snatched him out, we moved around 14. 300 and I told him the latest news. Meanwhile he noticed that my signal is “torn”. The manipulations with the transceiver were useless. In the end we understood that I sat too close to the antenna and the problem was with microphone. I moved to the opposite side as far as the cable let me. The signal was less “torn”, and it was possible to work.

On my complaint that no one answered me, Leo thought out a great cunning thing. He occupied the frequency near 14.260 and gave a common CQ. When on that frequency a crowd of calling stations appeared there, he gave the mike to me. It became fun! The first who called me was … RL3AA/1! I hardly could accept stations, which were weaker than S 9, I often asked again, but in any case I managed to make 2-3 QSO’s a minute. I was sure that not everybody who needed that island indeed could make QSO’s. But upon my word, I tried! It was already after the expedition when I learnt from Andy, RZ3EM that he worked with me on a wire antenna, thrown on a 5 meters pine-tree and which wasn’t even built with antenna tuner! When the number of CQs became scarce, I noticed two people behind me. They turned to be miners. They looked curiously at my equipment and I had to distract on explanations about HAM radio, their interest towards islands, etc. All in all the guys were inspired, though their eyes reflected kind of pity as towards an insane person. Maybe that was the reason for getting an invitation to supper. Having talked to Sergey, who sailed to visit me, we decided to accept the invitation. I also decided to stay till the morning as the QSO’s were still few. At 11 p.m. when there were no strength to stand mosquitoes, who attacked like hungry hyenas, we moved to the miners’ tent, taking liquid souvenirs from our supply.

Having spent the night on the yacht, I was back on the island by 6 a.m. The propagation was not very good, but still I managed to make about 300 QSO’s. I didn’t know why, but the main calling stations were from the Ukraine, European Russia and about ten from Europe. I apologize once again that I couldn’t answer to everybody! The noise from the generator really interfered the acceptance. About 8.30 a.m. saying good-buy to hospitable hosts, we left the island. The road back took less than 3 hours.

On the Small Tyuters I was welcomed kind-heartedly with “ukha”. After all the questions we were busy with preparations for the IOTA contest.

As usual, 5 minutes before the contest some problems revealed: the web between the computers was lost. Then it was loosing constantly that is why cries and scold were heard from the tent periodically. In test we worked with call RI1CA. During the first several seconds no one answered my CQ. Then, people found us, and it became funnier. A solid number of English men on air confused a bit, especially with prefixes G1 and G7. As far as I remembered, stations with such prefixes were allowed only on VHF. I even asked for several times hoping that I misheard something, but nope… My ear sight couldn’t be that bad. That was why I started to put them into log, as though I had been working with them on HF all my life. Then I learnt that the stations in Great Britain and Switzerland licensed for only VHF were permitted to work on HF as well. In general, the propagation was normal, people was calling for us, despite of many competitors, also working with EU-133. On the one hand they were RI1CGR, working from the Rodsher Island. They started working approximately the same time with us on the Virginy Islands. We often crossed on air, more than that, Rodsher was seen from the Virginy with the naked eye. The guys from our home area got to Kotlin Island and worked with the call RI1CG. RK3AWK/1 were at the same place, going the same rout as Nick and I did last year.

In an hour and a half, Leo, sitting on the mult place, said that on 10 meters were a lot of people. I quickly “jumped” there. There were really lively. Once I managed to make eight QSO’s a minute! All of a sudden some stations from the Southern America became to pass. They were all so loud that I felt some uneasiness. And I was right, in several minutes an ocean of stations turned into a thin stream and then dried out. The band died till the end of the test!

On 15 meters the situation was the same with the exception of Europe, which was there. On that band only 70 QSO’s were made. Due to mighty Aurora the basic QSO’s were made on 20 and 40 meters. And on 20 it brought its corrections and from propagations, which we had been observing for several days before to America, remained no trace. The end of the test, despite the obstacles, made by a capricious miss with romantic name Aurora, happened to be fun. There were no lots of calling stations, but on every my QRZ, someone replied and we succeeded to support 2-3 QSO’s a minute. It looked like a stimulator “pile up”. In a word we all agreed that the test was a success. 1860 QSO’s were made and claimed result was 2 937 549.

Right after the test we were gathering back. All the unnecessary equipment we put to the yacht during the day and it didn’t take us long to pack. We tried to leave no traces of our presence. All the rubbish was burnt and having checked everything for the last time, we left for St. Petersburg.

Summing it all up, I would like to thank everybody, who was on connection with us, to everyone who was waiting for us on air. Three islands are “opened”: Virginy, Malyj Tyuters and Bolshoy Tyuters. Maybe not everything was as we wanted, but we tried to make as many QSO’s as we could, and we counted 9000. In fact all the expeditions are held not only for personal pleasure, but also for all HAM’s, who are interested in QSO’s with new country and new islands. What a pleasure to hear: “I made QSO’s with You from all the islands. Thanks a lot for your work!”

We are grateful to Unicom company, Victor Pronin for taking us safe and sound from Moscow to St. Petersburg and back, the crew of yacht “Almaz”, Alexey Gomonov and Sergey Anokhin for fetching us to the island and help in charge and discharge, Valery and Victor for help in everything. Thanks to Mike, RL3AA for the invitation and the organization of this expedition. And I, as usual, want to thank my wife for her colossal patience!

Translate by Angela Dokuchaeva

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