THE DX-PEDITION TO THE NORTH POLE
See also: photos of expedition
Roman A. Levichev (RV3MA) RRC#104
Tourists in the whole world would like to visit planty of different interesting places of our planet. Long since the most popular ones are the 7 Wonders of the World. A new place recently appeared among the above. This is the North Pole - the place, which every skilled tourist dreams to conquest. Since the beginning of the 20 century it attracks a lot of people as a needle. They tried to conquest the North Pole on foot and by relaies of dogs. Now the most comfortable way is the air way. Nowdays an ice aerodrome and a very comfortable camp are built within about 100 km from the geographical North Pole. Arriving tourists are placed at this camp and they are given an opportunity to reach the North Pole by any ways they would like to. Some of them prefer ski, others are delivered by helicopters or landed by planes. As for me I was invited by the "Parachute World" Co. To take part in the expedition in honor ot the 70th Anniversary of Polar Aviation, the 70th Anniversary of Foundation of the First Polar Station at the Franz Josef Land and the 50th Anniversary of the First Skydive onto the North Pole as a radio operator. The usual way to the North is through Hatanga but our company decided to try another way through Murmansk and to build the ice aerodrome by it's own means having bought a special equipment.
During our preparation to the expedition I tried to work in the air. Sometimes I worked from the club station RZ3AZO and from the Elen's (RV3ACA) home on 80 m band after SKEDs with my wife Olga (UA3MIA). In Moscow I met Valery (RW3GW) who found an antenna and an amplifier for my DXpedition and the most important -gave me the special callsign R3RRC/0. He also decided to give out the special plaque "RRC-North Pole-1999" for the QSO with R3RRC/0. Valera will be the QSL-MGR for R3RRC/0 and Elen will be the QSL-MGR for RV3MA/0. They also provided the info support in the Interenet and in the air.
The departure was fixed on the 5 of April. I was seen off by Elen (RV3ACA) and Alexei (UA3BT). They gave me last parting wishes and advices and so I've got on to the train ¹176 "Moscow - Vorkuta". The journey has begun! The main equipment has been sent to Vorkuta beforehand. I took with me only an VHF radiostation "Granit" and worked on 144 MHz from the train. In every town radiohams discussed with me the results of the last SRR conference, the perspectives of our hobby in Russia. Moving to the north I noticed changes in the nature: deep forests were changing by rare vegetation of permafrost, the snow was becoming higher, the temperature - lower.
We arrived at Vorkuta on the 7 of April. First of all we went to the airport and loaded equipment into two planes AN-26. After that we placed at the hotel and I had an opportunity to talk with hams from Vorkuta. The weather on the 8 of April was very nice and at 8AM we flied out to Sredny Island where we were awaited by two helicopters MI-8. But the weather had changed at last moment and we were refused to land near 300 km of the Island. We were turned back. But the weather has changed not only on the Severnaya Zemlya: as a result the first plane landed at Dikson and the second (with me) landed in Amderma, about 100 km from Dikson. We waited for good WX at the frontier post. Boys were very hospitable and we were feeded and placed for the night.
I met my countryman UA3MEE who worked in Amderma and he told me about club station RK1PWA. The chief of the station was Nick. I went to him. During the conversation we drank tea and Nick showed me his collection of QSL-cards. He also told me about Amderma's nature, summer fishing and hunting. In the morning on the 9 of April we received the permission for the fly. We were taken pictures with Nick and the superstitious pilots said to us that it was a bad sign. But their fears proved unfounded. At 11:45AM we have landed on the Severnaya Zemlya. The Sredny Island met us with the temperature -21oC and the blinding sun was shining and whirling over the horizont. During loading of the helicopters I went to local radio operators. They have FT-900CAT. I called RE0RAS on 14.292. We exchanged reports - 59/59 - great audibility. I tried to find Moscow hams. On 15 meters I found Serge (UA3AGS) but he had no telephone. During my changing bands RE0RAS on 20 m and Serge on 144 MHz in his turn found Yuri (RA3AFO) and German (UA3AIU). They helped me in sending the information to Moscow by telephone. The flight to the Pole was delayed till Monday (12 of April). We had a couple of days to go sightseeing and for adaption to the 24 hours daylight.
We placed at the frontier post. I set my dipole on 20 meters at the height about 10 meters, turned on my FT-840 and listened to the air - no QRM, no noise - a clear air. There were no QRM in thousands kilometers from plants and factories. It's the dream of every radioham! The signals of radiostations were clear even at a very low level. I found out our location by GPS: 79o31'N and 91o08'E. First QSO was with my countryman UA3MNQ (Alexei from Yaroslavl). Reports were 59/59. I told him about my meetings, our trip and plans. Next QSO were with RK3QWX, UA9VI, UA3BT. My equipment worked very nice. I went in CW and try CQ: "Here is the Sredny Island, RV3MA/0, IOTA AS-042, RRC RR-07-02". And pile-up of European stations began - YL2UZ, OK1KW, S59DXX, I3VPO and others. All sent reports were 599. I didn't look at my S-meter. After 18Z the rate grew up to 3-4 QSO in minute. I heard KR1G, JH1MDJ, VE1MF, WB8E, K8CW, JA8BNP in loud voice through the crowd of European stations. Russian stations (UA3AA, RA3NC, UA2BD, UA3FO) were also coming very loudly.
At last on the 10 of April I met Vyacheslav, R1FJL, from the Franz Josef Land. We reached the agreement about our everyday SKEDs. The 20 meters band was opened after 7Z. There were many Russian stations in the air - it was nearly afternoon in Russia. But as soon as my call appeared in DX-cluster pile-up of European stations has begun again. During the first morning hour I passed 116 QSOs. Unfortunatelly, I had no opportunity of permanent working in the air. After 15Z I turned on my transceiver on 14.260. All stations were strong- SP6KEP, I2YBC, DF5WA. I worked with Rolf, DL6ZFG. He is co-ordinator of the Russian Robinson Club in Germany. We had a short talk because many stations were waiting for me. At 16Z I turned off my TX - I needed a rest. At 2Z of 11.04 I appeared again on 14.260 - the pile-up of American stations began: PR7CPK, W4YO, K8TAH, N7RO, KK9M and others. In the morning I tried CW and was met by Ivan, UA6MF - the famous "Robinson". We went on SSB and exchanged the news.
Since the begining of my expedition I couldn't contact with my QSL-manager Elen (RV3ACA). Only on the 11 of April we had QSO on 15 meters band. And reports were 59++/59++. That was strange: on 20 m we didn't hear each other. At last I have sent my greetings to my family in Rybinsk. I was shocked by the propagation in this region: I heard VK, ZL stations, stations from South America on 160 meters band, but my power was low and they couldn't hear me. The Easter came and our team went to the Dachny Island where admiral Ushakov's grave was. We saluted from "Kalashnik", made mention and went back to the frontier post. We passed by the Dachny Island's shore where birds had their camps in summer. But now there are only cold stones and high snow-drifts.
On the 12 of April on 1Z I made my last QSO with K9DX from the Sredny Island, packed my equipment and boarded the helicopter. Our route was "The Sredny Island - Arctic cape - the subbase". We needed fill up helicopters on the cape and at the subbase. The next point of our landing was the Ledovy within 100 km from the North Pole. But at the Arctic cape one of our helicopters became broken. The repair took us about 6 hours. During repairing I unpacked FT-840, an accumulator, set my dipole on 20 m. I was in time for RAS's traffic. Rolf, DL6ZFG called me and we exchanged the last news. I made 13 QSOs from the Arctic cape at the Komsomolets Island with European and Asian stations.
After the repair we landed at the subbase. The barrels with fuel were thrown down by parachutes and we have got tired carrying heavy barrels at one place. After hard work we were freezed in cool helicopters on the subbase in the middle of the Arctic ocean at the 85 lalitude. We arrived at the place where the Ledovaya base is to be in the evening of the 13 of April. The visibility again was very bad, another part of the fuel was thrown down in different places. And we again were lugging the barrels and have got tired. At last we found a good ice-floe for our aerodrome and our camp at 89 parallel. We set up two pneumatic tents for the tourists and service. Made for 10 men tent contained 4 folding beds and a table with my equipment. We sawed up bricks and built a very comfortable lavatory with roof and a "generator's section" where we placed 2 generators "Geko" with "Honda"'s engines 2,2 kW of power each. We also set up diesel stoves for heating the tents. In 5 minutes we can put our feather jackets off, get warm and feel like at home.
I set my 9 meter high mast with dipole on the service frequencies and CUSHCRAFT R5 on the amateur bands, also I unpacked my FT-840 and amplifier. I found out our location by GPS: 88o44'N and 105o00'E. The drift was about 500 meters in an hour in the north-west direction. My first QSO from the new QTH was with UA4PW, next QSO were with VE7/T95A, W6JNX, JT1Y, RA9AB, UA4PA, K0YN. It was 3Z. The air was clear and stations were calling all over the world. Europe, Asia, America, Australia were calling at one moment and with strong signals. But there was one special feature - from what side the sun is from that side the most part of station are. I found another practice of using of my CUSHCRAFT's antenna. I draw a circle around the mast and divided it into 24 parts like 24 hours. After that I drew an azimuth map and received a special radioamateur propagation clock. I've got to know a direction of the propagation. It was opposite to the shadow. I told about my exotic clock in the air and received a suggestion to reserve my rights for the invention. The service connection was always absent. So I sent all important info with the help of radiohams. Noboby refused my request. I'm sorry but I coudn't mention all of them here.
Meanwhile we had a problem with the construction of the aerodrome. Our tractor often broke. Finally it broke completely. We decided to go to the neighbouring base built by Hatanga in 40 km from us. A helicopter with Hatanga's liders arrived for the negotiations. Mike (UA3SDK/0) whom I met at the Sredny Island flied together with them. While our leaders discussed some organization problems Mike and I spoke about our radio, I showed our camp to Mike, we took some pictures. Soon the helicopter flied away and we began waiting for the final decision.
The weather has brought it's own corrections in our plans - the atmosphere pressure went down, the temperature went up to -12o C, a strong wind blew and ice-hummocks began to arise. Our ice-floe passed this test. But neighbour's ice-floe has been broken. The 20 meters crack broke a flying bar. Our neighbours decided to build a new one. We were ready to act, but our neighbour's troubles prolonged our waiting.
On the 21 of April we received a permission to move to the new Hatanga's aerodrome. I made last QSOs with my own call RV3MA/0. There was a very pleasant surprise - it was QSO with P51BH - Marti, OH2BH who got a rare opportunity of working from the North Korea. Later I found out that he had made less than 300 QSO.
The first plane IL-76 with the group of parachutists and a fuel for helicopters on the board flied out from Murmansk. I set up my antennas at the a place and found out our location - 89o00'N and 113o37'E. I began working by special callsign R3RRC/0. The first QSO was with Elen (RV3ACA), the next one was with Rolf (DL6ZFG) and some other: UA3BT, R1FJL, RA1CW. Meanwhile maintenance AN-74 flied in with the group of divers and additional equipment including snow-tractor and satellite's telephone on the board. At once I called to my family in Rybinsk and my friends in Moscow from the North Pole. In the evening I have got to know that Rolf had already sent his application for special plaque with ¹1. I made some QSO SSB and went to CW and pile-up began. Horray, the propagation has got better. Meanwhile the parachutists were jumping on the georgraphical Pole and Americans celebrated their wedding with champagne.
On the 23 of April at 17:09Z on the 20 m band I made trans-pole QSO: North Pole (RV3MA/0 and R3RRC/0) - South Pole,
Novolazarevskaya base (Nick, R1ANL). Reports were 55/44. Nick's signal was weak but very clear. Other hams on frequency
congratulated me.
Soon I went with the group of divers to the 90o. I found a nice break in the ice in 4 km from the geographical pole.
We set up our tent. The helicopter flied out to the ice aerodrome. We were left alone on the North Pole for 12 hours. The divers
were preparing to dive and I quickly set up my FT-840 and antennas. The first QSO was with Dali (K6UA). My location was
89o59'90''N and 84o03'73''E. Meanwhile I was watching diving. The water was very clear and all movements
were seen even at a long distance. Someone started up under-water videocamera and I observed our tent and people staying
on the ice-floe from under water. The depth of the ice was 3 meters and it's bottom was covered by ice-hummocks of different forms.
They were like blue-green stalactites with air's bubbles. At that time our ice-floe was drifting to the Wets hemisphere with the speed
about 500 meters in hour. Soon we passed 90o crying: "Horray!" I had time to take some pictures.
It was for good memory and nice evidence of conquesting of the 90 parallel! In fact, we were staying on the geographical North Pole
we were during 1,5 minutes.
The diving programm ended in time because the ice-hummocks began to arise. Our break decreased from 25 meters
to 5. In places of collision the ice-hummocks reached the 10 meters high. It was a very slow and majestic process although
it caused a little panic and fear. Fortunately it lasted not very so long and we had not to replace our tent standing in 2 meters
from the crack. Waiting for the connection with the helicopter we celebrated the successful completion of the divers's programm
on the North Pole. The helicopter took us at 2Z. At that moment we have already drifted to the Canada's territory into 6 km. Having
come back to the camp we slept for a long time.
On the 25 of April I met the next ballonists's group. They were ready to start up their ballons on the North Pole. The propagation
became very good: in every moment I was called by stations all over the world. I made QSO In turn with WA3TNO, EX2T, JA3CE,
LA5WQ, JE1HRF, HS0/EA6GIJ, ZL3RK, I1HYW, RA1QQ, VK3QI, N8DX and many, many others.
The Spain tourists brought the transciever KENWOOD TS-570D for advertising. They gave it to me for a while. I connected it to
my antennas and thanks to it's tuner I received more power in my antenna.
Meanwhile the balloonists prepared their equipment and in turn began to blow up their balloons. It was a very beatiful and majestic
show. A large balloon filled with hot air slowly blew up with 4 pilots on the board. I photographed some interesting moments.
After finishing of all programms tourists started to Moscow through Murmansk. Waiting for AN-74 we began to roll up our camp.
I worked in the air till the last moment. My logbook was all and I wrote last QSOs on the logbook's margins. These were my last QSOs
- DF9DI, IZ0COK, F5PAC, IK0DWN, UA2BD, RA1CW. It was sad but my DXpedition was over.
Having we landed in Murmansk in felt boots, high boots, feather-jackets and other warm clothes we were walking on the grass
and thinking: "Is it really the ground under our feet?"
We loaded equipment from AN-74 on to IL-76 and placed at the hotel. For the first time during the last 3 weeks we took a bath,
had dinner and relaxed. I was met by Alex (UA1ZAO) who showed me some interesting sights of Murmansk. In my turn I
told him about my expedition and my impressions. At 16:00 we flied to Moscow by IL-76. After 2 hours of flight we landed
at Zhukovsky aerodrome near Moscow. Horray!
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